How to change a rear brake drum and adjust the parking brake on older cars
Changing rear brake drums and adjusting the parking brake on older cars is a satisfying weekend job that saves money and teaches you about vehicle systems. With basic tools, a safe workspace, and about 2–4 hours per axle, you can replace worn drums and restore solid parking brake function. Follow the steps below and work carefully around wheel bearings, springs, and brake hardware.
Step 1: Prepare the vehicle safely
Park on a flat surface, engage the front parking brake, chock the front wheels, and place the transmission in gear or Park. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts one or two turns while the car is on the ground to prevent the wheel from spinning when you jack it up.
[Illustration: Car on flat driveway with wheel chocks and a floor jack under rear axle, lug wrench nearby]
Step 2: Lift and support the rear end
Use a hydraulic floor jack to lift one rear corner or the whole rear, then place jack stands under the axle housing or recommended jacking points. Raise the car 6–10 inches so the wheel clears the ground; never rely on the jack alone and test stability before working.
[Illustration: Rear of car supported on two jack stands with wheel removed and jack lowered]
Step 3: Remove wheel and inspect components
Remove the lug nuts and wheel, then clean around the drum with a brush and brake cleaner to see components. Inspect the drum, backing plate, springs, cable, and wheel cylinder for leaks, heavy rust, or broken parts to decide whether to rebuild or replace hardware.
[Illustration: Removed wheel leaning against car, exposed brake drum and backing plate being inspected with flashlight]
Step 4: Remove the drum safely
If the drum is stuck, retract the parking brake and back off the adjuster through the access hole. Use penetrating oil on the hub face and tap the drum with a dead‑blow hammer around the perimeter; use two bolts in the threaded hub holes as pullers if present. Avoid prying on the axle seal or bearing.
[Illustration: Mechanic tapping brake drum edge with dead-blow hammer and using hub bolts as pullers]
Step 5: Inspect and replace brake parts
With the drum off, measure shoe thickness; replace shoes under 1/8 inch (3 mm) lining or if uneven. Replace or rebuild the wheel cylinder if it leaks, and replace springs and retainers if weak or deformed. Clean with brake parts cleaner and apply a light smear of high-temperature grease on contact points only.
[Illustration: Brake shoes, springs, and wheel cylinder removed and laid out on clean cloth for measurement and comparison]
Step 6: Reinstall new drum and adjust shoes
Reinstall the drum, then turn the star adjuster outward until a slight drag is felt when spinning the wheel by hand—this creates the recommended 1–2 mm drag. If the drum has access slots, use a brake spoon through the plate to adjust; verify free rotation with a small resistance and no binding at full turn of the wheel.
[Illustration: Hand turning star adjuster through backing plate access hole with small screwdriver while drum is on]
Step 7: Adjust the parking brake and reassemble
Reconnect and adjust the parking brake cable at the equalizer so the lever or pedal engages at 6–8 clicks or holds the vehicle on a 20% incline. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts, lower the car to the ground, torque lug nuts to factory spec (typically 80–110 ft·lb for rear wheels) in a star pattern, and road‑test at low speed to confirm firm braking and parking brake hold.
[Illustration: Technician adjusting parking brake cable under car and torquing lug nuts with torque wrench]
- Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when handling brake dust; avoid compressed air on old linings. Work on one side at a time so the other side serves as a reference.
- Keep a small container for springs and retainers so parts don’t roll away; photograph the assembly before disassembly for reference.
- Use a torque wrench for lug nuts and any axle or hub fasteners; overtorquing can warp components.
- If drums show heavy ridges, measure inside diameter and replace if above vehicle spec; machining is possible but replacement is often cheaper.
- Replace hardware kit (springs, pins, retainers) whenever you install new shoes for consistent performance; these kits cost $10–30.
- After work, bed the brakes by performing 5–10 stops from 25–35 mph to seat new linings, avoiding hard stops until the surface transfers evenly.
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack; use rated jack stands and check stability before reaching under the vehicle.
- Brake fluid and cleaner are flammable and corrosive—avoid sparks, keep containers closed, and clean spills immediately.
- Do not inhale brake dust; it may contain harmful materials. Use a wet rag or approved vacuum instead of dry brushing.
- If wheel cylinders or bearings are damaged, do not reuse—driving with compromised components risks brake failure and wheel detachment.
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